Puerto Viejo is probably the most visited coastal town on the Caribbean side. And its reputation is deserved. I remember very well the first time I travelled along the coast, sitting in a taxi, having a philosophical conversation with the driver, whom I will remember for years to come. What a beautiful soul that man is.
But going back to my first impressions, what I remember most vividly is the feeling it gave me. I came from Tortuguero on a two-hour journey through the riverbanks, encountering all kinds of wildlife, including crocodiles, howler monkeys and birds that I had probably only seen in documentaries because they were spectacular.
I was tired and scared. Scared because I was alone for the first time in Latin America and had to travel through Limón, which isn't the safest of places. Then we arrived at Puerto Viejo, travelling along the coastal road towards Playa Chiquita. The sun was smiling, people were riding bikes, shops were selling food, surfers were surfing, people were smiling, and reggae was everywhere. I felt relieved, happy and wanted to join that party immediately.
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The point is, it's an amazing place, yet not as heavily visited as the Pacific side, which, in a way, keeps its magic. I stayed for a few days, and it was a little adventure with accidents and moments of "I think I am dying", but overall, one of the best memories I have. Here are six things I did, and I believe you should do too. Or not, if you don't like being told what to do. Regardless, I believe they're mandatory.
1. Explore Puerto Viejo's beaches
Puerto Viejo has a few beaches; some are spectacular, almost otherworldly. From black sand to solitary little heavens. Explore them at your own pace, one a day if you wish and have time. Each one is different and has its own personality. My favourite was Playa Negra, or Black Beach. It was like being on another planet. I don't want to add too many details about each beach. Maybe I'm being lazy, but I have written an article describing each one, comparing the good and the bad. There is no bad, just preferences, I guess.
2. Rent a bicycle and explore the coast
This is the most iconic thing that almost everyone should do in Puerto Viejo. It's a must, and it's tradition. Rent a "banana", the name locals give to this type of bicycle, and go from beach to beach, starting from Puerto Viejo town and ending in Manzanillo. You can always go further if you feel adventurous, but this took me a whole day, as I spent time at each beach, swam, got some vitamin D, and continued my journey.
I must confess that I almost died doing this, so learn from my what-not-to-do example, please, so you don't die.
I rented my banana from my accommodation for $5 for an entire day. Took it. My accommodation was uphill and connected to the main road. I was riding downhill towards the main road at full speed, convinced I would brake when it was necessary to do so, until I realised I didn't have hand brakes.
I panicked. I didn't want to die. Cars were passing, not too fast, but fast enough to send me to hospital or worse. So, I jumped off the bike and onto the side of the road at full speed. I ate the ground; it needed some seasoning, to be fair.
I stood up, made sure I wasn't injured, picked up the bike again and realised it had coaster brakes. I had to pedal backwards to brake. I laughed at myself.
Anyway, I continued my journey with less confidence, but I had a great day, enjoyed some good swims and ate churros at the beach that a nice Argentinian was selling. Make sure you know how your bike's brakes work, please.
3. Visit the Jaguar Rescue Center
This place is not only about encountering wildlife, but also about confronting a real problem. Wild animals suffering the consequences of human interference, illegal hunting and logging, and wildlife trafficking. It's very close to Playa Chiquita and can be paired beautifully with a visit to Cahuita National Park on the same day. I have written a more in-depth article about what to expect from this place, which you can read here.
Your visit here will help support their work to return animals to their wild habitats. Monkeys and sloths recovering from injuries and mistreatment. Some cannot return to the wild and must remain in care. That's why your visit counts. It helps more than you think.
4. Discover Gandoca-Manzanillo Wildlife Refuge
This is what I consider "la joya de la corona", or the jewel in the crown? Anyway, my best and worst adventure of my whole trip. One of the wildest and least crowded places I visited in Costa Rica. Hiking trails full of mud (if it rains, which it did while I hiked), fewer people, almost no people. Howler monkeys who shat at me, spiders the size of my hand with rainbow colours, more monkeys, isolation, wild dogs, and the most isolated beach I have ever been to. The whole story you will find in this article, where I explain my surreal experience. However, you can book a guide, which is more sensible.
5. Visit Cahuita National Park
As I said previously, you can pair this visit with the Jaguar Rescue Center, allowing enough time to travel between them, and have a full day of wildlife and jungle. I didn't spend too much time here. It was very rainy, and they decided to close the trails I was interested in exploring.
Tourists were dressed as if they were about to start an expedition into the Congo Basin, carrying expensive cameras, and there I was with my flip-flops, which I took off, so barefoot, with my sandwich and a bottle of water.
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That left me with only a 20-minute walk before turning back. Disappointing, but you might have a better experience, better weather and therefore more time to explore its beaches, wildlife and trails. I still think Manzanillo is better because it's wilder, but that's just my opinion, and Cahuita is still a must-visit national park.
6. Spend an evening in Puerto Viejo town
Last but not least (I know, cliché), it's about feeling the nightlife vibe of this little town. At night, the lights shine, the music grows, the dancing starts. It's beautiful. I think it's beautiful because it's small and yet so alive. There is not much I can say about it. The best way is to get there, walk around and follow the flow and the vibe. Have a drink or two, have a dance or not, but go.
The best thing about it isn't even the town; it's the people who are responsible for the vibe. It feels like being in Jamaica but hearing "pura vida" instead of "wagwan brotha". There is an important connection between the island and this town, that's for sure, and you will feel it instantly. Maybe even smell it.
Where to Stay in Puerto Viejo
I will link here a post where I compare places to stay, as the coast is long and your research could also be too long. For every type of traveller, there's a place that will be best. Have a look yourself here. I will pin a map where you can browse places yourself. Some people prefer maps. I do too.
Find Your Stay in Puerto Viejo
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