Going to Tortuguero? Stop in Parismina First
If you are reading this, you must already be aware of the wonders this little country presents. It’s almost a miracle: the greenery, the pura vida, the wildlife and the serenity. When I planned my Costa Rica trip, I did it on a whim. I was between Kenya and Costa Rica, the stars aligned, I saw a reel on my feed and believed it was a sign. I know how it sounds, but I love to romanticise my life as much as I can. What a boring life otherwise.
I have this tendency to feel like an explorer, even though most of Earth has already been explored. One of the places I found was Tortuguero National Park, which is wild. Just the fact that jaguars walk onto the beach and hunt sea turtles, while humans try to protect them because other humans also love hunting them, but not in a natural-selection way, in a damaging way. I’ll get to that in another post.
The point is, I loved it, but while zooming out on Google Maps, I found a little village further south, even wilder and much less visited. The place is called Parismina.
Inside this guide
Discover Parismina
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Getting There
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Tortuguero Connection
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Where to Stay
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Before You Go
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Is Parismina Worth It?
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Where Is Parismina, and Is It Near Tortuguero?
Parismina exists on a strip of land between a river and the Caribbean Sea, only reachable by boat. Conveniently, the same boat that drops tourists off at Tortuguero National Park also stops at Parismina. But most tourists see it as another stop, just a village. It’s much more than that.
Here, four species of sea turtle nest on its beaches, lately with very little protection from illegal poaching. Even so, it is better than when 98% of nests were poached before ASTOP began an organised conservation effort.
Parismina lies along the Tortuguero canal network without being Tortuguero. It’s close, but outside the tourism machine that protects Tortuguero. Walking through this tiny village is like walking through a wild and undiscovered piece of land, away from the crowds and the noise. It’s just you in the middle of the jungle.
Why Stop in Parismina Before Tortuguero?
I will be clear here. Parismina needs help, not just the turtles, but the village itself. Though, this should not be the reason for your trip. I travelled there thinking I would meet more volunteers helping with the turtle conservation programme, but I was the only foreigner.
But the reason should be the desire to find a place almost untouched by human hands. Let me rephrase that. Untouched by the big tourism machine. Everything is more local, raw and wild. It’s a village that runs like a village whether you go or stay. Just people willing to help you and smile at you. Pure jungle, sea and a village that refuses to perform for anyone, and that’s beautiful.
I get very excited writing about its rawness, and it is raw, but somehow there is also a local bar, a restaurant, a smoothie shop, a pizza shop and a few more things I can’t recall. Oh, and a policeman who works a few times a week… crazy.
How to Get to Parismina Without a Car
I have achieved many things in my life, but getting a driving licence is not one of them. Don’t ask me why, I don’t know. Many people recommended that I get a car there. Of course, I could not. The transport system from San José was not too bad. My host told me exactly how to get there. It was long, but simple.
Prefer having your own car? You can check local car rentals here.
In San José, I took an Uber to the bus station, Gran Terminal del Caribe. From there, I bought a ticket to Siquirres. The bus ride was around two hours. We faced traffic, sudden rain and altitude. We witnessed a motorbike accident caused by the slippery road. Sad.
From Siquirres, I had to walk 50 metres down the road, as the driver told me, to find another bus station. Very close, yet much smaller. It was used by very small buses running shorter distances.
From there, I bought a ticket to Caño Blanco. This bus ride was long. It stopped many times, the road was bumpy, but the scenery was like nothing I had ever seen. The more time I spent on that bus, the rawer everything became. Banana plantations, jungle, simple houses with people smiling and living their lives, meanwhile me, looking at them thinking, “Should I move here?”
Once I arrived at Caño Blanco, there was only one more step. A boat. The road ended and only water could be seen. It had an Amazon jungle vibe, and I loved that. The boat ride took around 15 minutes, and this same boat also takes you to Tortuguero. The difference is just a little longer on the boat, which, by the way, is an expedition of its own.
The Moment the Road Ends
I had never seen such a thing before, but I could feel life coming from both sides of the river. It was just green. Jungle, nothing else. But the sounds of howler monkeys, water splashing, sounds coming from every direction, yet I could see nothing but green.
I was the only foreigner, and I was scared, but also in awe of everything surrounding me. No road, just a boat and a dock that opened its door to me, welcoming me to a very special place many people haven’t even heard of. It was a gift of fate.
Can You Travel From Parismina to Tortuguero?
Parismina and Tortuguero are linked by the same river and the same boat transfer. So, it’s more than possible to travel from one to the other. Staying some time in Parismina and then travelling to Tortuguero is possible. You must ask the boatman at the dock when you arrive, or ask your host. They will give you a local contact who can transport you to Tortuguero and even to Limón, where you can continue towards Puerto Viejo if you want to explore the Caribbean further.
Day Trips
Explore Tortuguero for the Day
If you are staying in Parismina but still want to explore Tortuguero, these are some of the day trips and wildlife tours available.
Booking through this widget may support Wild Veins at no extra cost to you.
But for me, it is better to be based in Parismina, live the local rural life of a jungle village and take day trips to Tortuguero. This way, you can contribute to the local economy of the village and, if you can, participate in ASTOP volunteering to help protect turtle nests, because here they rely on volunteers, unlike Tortuguero.
Where to Stay in Parismina & Tortuguero
What I Wish I Had Known Before Going
Not much, to be honest. I like to be surprised, but I must warn you about a few details that, if forgotten, could make your trip uncomfortable.
Timetables are not reliable. I had to ask people to find the exact times, sometimes just waiting patiently. Pura vida is a real thing, which reminds me of inshallah in my homeland, Morocco. Just flow.
Cash is a must. Carry all the cash you will need for this trip. Tips, day trips, food… everything. I carried around £100 with me for a week in Parismina, and I spent around £50. My food was already included when I booked my place with a local host. If you don’t have food included, you should carry more for daily food expenses.
Prepare yourself for the jungle. Mosquitoes here are real, mud is also real, and let’s not even talk about the humidity. Keep that in mind and pack accordingly. I am very simple, so I just brought practical clothes, mosquito spray and loads of patience. It’s worth it, don’t worry. Oh, and please practise your Spanish a little. Not everyone speaks English.
Is the Journey to Parismina Worth It?
For me, it was. I walked along a beach with no humans, just me. I swam alone and sat looking at the waves for hours. I wandered around the nearby jungle looking for frogs, snakes and spiders. I kept watch in case I was eaten by a jaguar, made friends in the village, drank Costa Rican coffee under the rain and walked barefoot around the village exploring, saying pura vida to everyone I came across. That alone was what made this trip worth it. It’s close to Tortuguero. You can visit the national park for a day, or even stay overnight and come back to the village as a base. The possibilities are wide and all exciting. So, it’s up to you. What are you looking for?